Koan **: A Copenhagen favorite

There's something special about watching someone you once worked alongside come into their own and create something that surpasses what you might have imagined. Koan by Kristian Baumann has become one of my favorite restaurants in Copenhagen, and while I'm admittedly biased, it's not for the reasons you might assume.

A Shared Foundation, An Independent Journey

Kristian and I worked together during the very first years of relæ, where he served as sous chef. Those were the heady days of the New Nordic movement in the early 2010s—a time of exploration, experimentation, and the establishment of a particular aesthetic and approach to ingredients. That period gave us a shared culinary language: a preference for clean flavors, subtle complexity, and surprising textures beneath a subdued minimal aesthetic.

But here's what's important to understand: Kristian's path has been informed by much more than our time working together. I don't see myself as his mentor or even a significant influence on what he's achieved. The truth is, he worked his ass off for years before getting the opportunity to chase his own culinary vision. What he's built at Koan is entirely his own—executed in a truly exceptional way.

Nordic Tradition Meets Korean Heritage

At Koan, Kristian takes the Nordic foundation we both know and propels it into the next decade through a deeply personal exploration of his Korean heritage. The dishes are stunning, tasty, elegant and perplexing—a genuine marriage of traditions that, to me, brings exotic Korean flavors into conversation with familiar Nordic approaches.

What makes Koan truly exceptional is how deeply personal Kristian's vision is. Every choice in this restaurant reflects his journey—exploring his roots, his story, his identity. You feel it in every dish and every bite.

When Story Informs Technique

This is how I believe high-end dining experiences can transcend mere luxurious indulgence: when a personal story creates a genuine need to explore something deeper, and when technical attention to detail is informed by that exploration. When everything is in a certain place because it is truly important to someone, you can feel it. There's an authenticity that can't be manufactured.

I'll be honest—my attention span rarely copes with the level of storytelling in modern fine dining restaurants. Too often, the narrative overwhelms the actual eating experience. But at Koan, many dishes left me with questions I needed answers for: "What was the inside of this one more time?" That's a telltale sign that the food is interesting enough on its own terms, that flavors are prioritized over their particular story.

Success as Self-Discovery

I am incredibly proud of what Kristian Baumann and his team have built. The restaurant has achieved enormous success, gaining two Michelin stars in the blink of an eye. But what makes me proudest isn't the accolades or recognition, as deserved as they are.

What moves me is that Kristian has created a space for himself where focused and meaningful work serves as a (delicious) tool for his own self-discovery.

Well done, Baumann. Great job, Koan.